I am sitting on the floor at Miami International Airport, laptop plugged into a post, scoping out the people waiting at the gate. Who are the other biologists in the crowd? Not the best or worst dressed, but probably the casual few with laptops perched atop well-worn jeans. We are headed to the Galapagos Islands for a four-day ?World Summit on Evolution?, hosted by the Universidad San Francisco de Quito, Ecuador. There will be 150 of us, all that San Cristobal can handle ? with accommodations described as ?primitive? yet, oddly, with promised Internet access.Also known as Chatham Island, San Cristobal is the easternmost of the Galapagos chain, and it is where the Beagle first docked on September 16, 1835. As others before him had concluded, young naturalist Charles Darwin was at first fooled by the seemingly lifeless expanse of shattered shards of black lava that greeted the visitors at...

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